Stories, food and practical tips from the valleys around Skardu, written by the people who live here.
SeasonsFrom late September the poplars along Skardu's roads and lakes turn gold, and still water doubles the colour. It is a quieter, cooler season than summer, with Deosai still open until about October and apricot orchards in Shigar glowing along the way.
We share our favourite roads, lakes and viewpoints for autumn, plus what to wear for cold mornings.
Read the full storyGuides and notes to help you plan a smoother trip to Baltistan.
Travel TipsSkardu lies about 570 km north of Islamabad. The flight is the fastest and most scenic option but depends on weather, so keep a spare day. By road, the Gilgit to Skardu stretch is about 200 km and takes roughly 4-6 hours.
Food & CultureBalti food is mild, hearty and built for altitude: mamtu dumplings, prapu noodles, marzan with apricot oil and salty butter tea. Here is what to order and where to try it.
PlacesAt around 4,114 m, Deosai is among the highest plateaus in the world and a national park since 1993. Learn when it opens, what wildlife to look for and how to plan the jeep ride.
PlacesShigar is home to the 17th-century Fong-Khar fort, orchards and the 14th-century Amburiq Mosque. It is also the gateway to Askole and K2 treks.
Travel TipsDays can be warm and nights cold, even in summer. Layers, a light jacket, sun protection, some cash and your original CNIC for checkposts make the list.
PlacesFour lakes within an easy drive: heart-shaped Shangrila, quiet Upper Kachura, and large Satpara. Which to pick, when to go and how to combine them in one day.
Balti cooking has Tibetan and Central Asian roots. It leans on whole grains, buckwheat and apricot oil, and is generally not spicy. Ask us for a local meal at Ringchan.
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